Hi there everyone. I wanted to take a minute to dispel some incorrect understandings and hopefully promote some education that will help y'all out. I want to make sure that you understand that I'm not trying to bash anyone here, and that I simply want to help. If you have any questions, it's important to ask, too!
First off, let's talk about the numeric part of bra sizes. This is something that I've been reading a lot about through the Reddit "ABraThatFits" community and various other sites dedicated to bra sizing and information.
Back in the day, bra sizes were measured differently because of limited fabric options. These conditions led to the "add 5 inches" technique, which is still widely suggested today, but is no longer valid. All you need to do is measure around your chest,
below your breasts, and record that measurement.
I bolded the "below" in the section above for a very specific reason. Many retailers are now taking the "above the breast" approach to determine the band size. As guys, we should all look at this with the suspicious eye it deserves. Do you size the tires on your car according to how many windows the car has? No, you size them according to the room that's available in the wheel wells. Why would you measure for a band that is supposed to sit under your breasts by measuring above them? Do the world a favor and help us bury this incorrect technique accordingly. Your band size is determined by measuring
below your breasts,
not above them.
Finally, odd numbers need to be rounded up to the nearest even number. If you measure as 39", you're looking at a 40 band.
On to the letters now: the cup size.
Many people are under the incorrect assumption that an "A cup" is universal. It's not. the cup size is determined by the difference between the band and the breast measurement. Using the tire analogy, think of it as the middle number, the aspect ratio. The height of the tire is determined by this, much like your cup size is determined by the difference between the breast and band sizes.
To get the cup size, measure across the fullest part of your breasts and all the way around your back. This measurement, minus the band size will usually be a number less than 10. Don't limit that though, as there are cup sizes that span the
entire alphabet. However, let's stick with the simple numbers to start.
Let's say you measure your breast (or bust) measurement and come up with 43". Subtracting the band size (40") from that, you get a difference of 3". Now let's find the letter of the alphabet at the respective position of 3: C. It gets a little tricky as you get into larger cup sizes though. A 5" difference in US measurements will give you a DD cup, while a 6" will give you a DDD. In European sizes this would follow the alphabet naturally though. UK sizes get a little off with going from D to DD and then to E, but don't fret: There are tools and charts that help you determine this all over the place. Just make sure that whatever site your on to find this information doesn't throw the measure-under-your-armpits-and-add-5-inches rule at you.
So now throw it all together. If you measure 39" under your breasts and 43" across the fullest part of them, you'll want to
start off with a 40C bra. Why the emphasis on "start off"? Because all brands are different, you'll want to experiment with what works for you.
Another thing to mention is shape. Breasts come in all different sizes, as you know, but they also come in different shapes. I saw a thread on here talking about "shallow" bras, and a response suggesting that a smaller cup was needed. While that might seem logical, it's not exactly true.
Remember that the cup size is measured across the fullest part of the breast. Think of it like basketballs on a light pole. If you squash the basketballs out and measure, then let them return to their normal shape and measure, you're
probably going to get a similar measurement. This is because the volume doesn't change, and cup sizes are also actually a volumetric measurement. If the breast has
wider roots but doesn't have much
projection, it could still be a 40C, but a different shape.
I'll use my own measurements as an example.
- Under my breasts, I measure right at a 36".
- Across the fullest part of my breasts, I measure 41"
Using the technique above, I would be a 36DD in US sizes. However, I don't have the projection that most bras are constructed with in this size, though the width of my breast is probably right around what a 36DD would be. Instead, I have been wearing a 36B, as this is the right amount of projection, but the width is too little.
I'll post a bit about myself in the stories section, so keep an eye out for that post. In it, I'll talk about the different sizes I've tried and how I've come to where I'm at today.
I want to encourage you to take a look at the various things on the Reddit community I mentioned. Maybe even start with the
beginner's guide and see what they suggest. If you have any questions, don't hesitate to sign up over there and ask the community. They are quite welcoming and have a desire to see their community statement fulfilled: "Because everyone who wants one deserves A Bra That Fits!"
Hopefully this information helps you out. I encourage you to ask questions and discuss it though. Keep in mind that as guys, we're all shaped quite differently than the gals that bras were originally made for, so we might have to fudge things a bit. However, the information I aimed to share should be a good starting point at the very least!